NYFW Fall 2013: long-lasting impressions

It feels like it’s only been a day or two since we saw the very first Fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection, but the New York part of the global fashion extravaganza is over. While the fashion pack is moving their forces to London, I am sitting at my desk, all wrapped-up and cosy, cup of tea at arm’s reach, thinking of my favourites.

As always I was very grateful to the designers who live streamed their shows for everyone to watch. It puzzles me why there are still some who choose not to. Seeing the clothes move and absorbing the atmosphere of the show, even through the screen, can be good for both the inspiration and understanding of the collection as well as sales boost. The clothes that live are everything. The fashion “nature mortes” that become available minutes after the shows don’t always have the same effect.

What will I remember about New York fashion week the most?

Details-wise, the masculine coats, the structural dresses, the short full skirts, the injection of blue, plenty of leather and fur, the long gloves and the knee-high boots.

And then there were the collections…

Needless to say, the one I was looking forward to the most was the Oscar de la Renta show. Thankfully they streamed, so my only task was staying up past midnight in order to witness the moment in fashion history.

As soon as the first look came out it was obvious that Galliano certainly was in the building – those gathered jackets cinched at the waist with a leather belt were very him, sort of René Gruau’s inspired Couture Spring 2011 mixed with 2010 and John Galliano ready-to-wear Fall 2011, the shapes and colours of the “bubble” dresses reminded me of two of the Dior’s couture collections circa 2008, leather and capes – Dior Fall 2011 and the the lace gown looked very similar to the one Galliano designed for Dior Couture Fall 2005. Half way through the show the make-up and hair became very familiar, too.

In fact, minus the locks at the back, those heavily painted eyes, bow lips and wavy hair were very much like the look from the John Galliano Spring 2011 ready-to-wear show.

But there were also clothes that were definitely Oscar. Those were beautiful, but felt mature and very grown-up. Perhaps, not for the young and free who would be grapping the capes, timeless tuxedo-like jackets and leather that were also a part of the collection – a slightly confusing mix, at the end, but nevertheless, it’s better to be confused by beauty than the lack of it.

The point this collection showed is that Galliano and de la Renta definitely share the same aesthetics and despite age difference belong to the old school kind of designers who understand fashion deeply and have an ability to put this kind of understanding into the clothes.

At the end of the show John didn’t come out. I am sure many would want him to, but alas, it didn’t happen. Still, it was a relief to know that Galliano was there, he was given an opportunity to create again and at least a bunch of people from the industry were there to support him… I was happy for him. I was happy that he found the strength to get out there, no matter how many spiteful comments and remarks have been published all over the web. I was happy to know that this man, the unique talent, is here, alive, working… no matter what. I admit, I was scared that we might lose him, just as we did McQueen. Now I am relieved and looking forward to the future seasons… 

There was another Brit that made me happy last week. Victoria Beckham created yet another simple but very elegant and perfectly executed collection where every item was a visual treat. If only I could afford her designs, I’d live in them.

The other fashion delights I will remember (and wish I could have) included…

… Calvin Klein blue pleated dress and black toned-down military-style coat that moved in such a mesmerising way. The pieces were worn by Caroline and Vanessa whom I adore, although this time the choice of models didn’t distract me from the actual clothes or influenced my love for the designs.

… J. Mendel floating gown – this picture doesn’t do any justice to it.

… Theykens’ Theory modern classics with a flirty twist and a touch of comfort proving how slouchy can be so very sensual.